Oct 02, 2024

Serigne Mbaye

TIME Staff

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Serigne Mbaye

Serigne MbayeRita Harper—The New York Times/Redux

Every few generations a chef emerges who not only embodies the best in our profession but also makes clear what needs to change. A chef who defies the status quo and breathes new life into this craft. A chef who introduces new ideals and unapologetically represents their culture. On meeting chef Serigne Mbaye, you notice his eyes: honest, full of integrity, and bright with the knowledge that life is an opportunity to make this world better. Introducing unfamiliar cultures to American palates is no small feat. But he does so with ease, strengthened by his determination to make African food as recognized and celebrated as other popular culinary traditions. Originally hailing from Senegal, Serigne threw himself into the abyss of fine dining, studying under the greats, all the while carrying his country with him. If you are lucky enough to visit Dakar NOLA—his New Orleans restaurant, which won a James Beard Award this year—you might see him speaking his native tongue in a dining room full of a kaleidoscope of patrons, some of whom will respond in kind. For Serigne, bringing people together with food isn’t just standing in front of a stove, it’s making his restaurant a podium to spread the gospel: that African food is enough, our traditions are avant-garde, and they deserve the utmost respect. Our industry is better because he exists.

Onwuachi is a James Beard–winning chef and author